Raving Among the Bones

The history of “free parties” can be traced back to illegal acid house raves in the UK in the late 1980s. The basic format—massive speakers outside with people dancing—was inherited from Caribbean sound system culture, but the illegality and lawlessness had a specific British flavor, a reaction to the conservative mainstream and a moribund nightclub scene. The movement was soon adopted in Europe, leading eventually to large annual gatherings like Frenchtek and Czechtek.

Despite decades of suppression by the authorities, enterprising ravers are still finding ways to party. In Paris, that has long included navigating the catacombs below the city to party away from the prying eyes of les gendarmes. Noé, a photographer based in Paris, got in touch to share some of his favorite pictures.

VICE: How did you start going to these parties?
Noé Christin-Davy: I started going to free parties because I was hanging around with people who ran a trap and rap sound system called Good Dirty Sound in the northern suburbs of Paris.

What kinds of people go?
Every kind of person. “Free” means freedom more than it means free of charge. The music is principally techno, including acid, gabber, house, and jungle. Sometimes it can also be punk rock, dancehall, rap, trap, or reggae.

When and where do these parties take place?
In Paris and its suburbs, mainly in underground technical galleries, but also in the catacombs, forests, and abandoned warehouses.

What’s it like going to a party somewhere forbidden, like the catacombs?
It is a real adventure. You arrive without knowing what the place will look like, whether it will be dangerous, or whether the party will even still be running by the time you get there. Once you’re inside, you enjoy every minute because it could all stop at any moment.

I remember New Year’s Eve, 2024. We went deep into a forest without knowing the location. We arrived in front of a giant bunker door. Someone asked me why I had come. I replied, “I came for the party lol.” She answered, “Yeah, but which one?” Let’s just say I came for both. We entered a huge stone quarry with kilometres and kilometres of underground galleries.

Another time we went to a warehouse free party that got shut down by the police after only 30 minutes. We met a nice couple who suggested another party about an hour away. It was already late, so we got an Uber. We told the driver we were going to a free party. He was amazed. “Oh yeah, a free party? I’ve never seen one! I never party. Can I come with you just to see?”

Next thing you know, he’s driving his big black car across a field. People started looking at us as if we were undercover police. The further we went, the more nervous he became. He stayed for about five minutes with his eyes wide open before finally saying, “I don’t feel it, guys.” We went partying without him.

“We dance with all the ghosts. They are our friends”

How do people find these parties?
Sometimes it’s a phone line. Sometimes it’s an Instagram flyer that simply says “secret location.” Sometimes it’s just a friend telling you where to go. Most of the time, though, information is shared through private channels such as Telegram groups.

How do you know where to hold parties in the catacombs, and how do you get a generator down there?
People who know the area well will lead you to the larger rooms. There is always a way to get the equipment in.

Have you ever lost someone in the catacombs?
No. You don’t get in or out without a guide.

There are photos of ravers in very tight spaces. Has anyone ever got stuck and needed rescuing?
Shit happens.

Have the catacomb parties ever been haunted by the ghost of a child who was executed in the 18th century for stealing a loaf of bread?
We dance with all the ghosts. They are our friends.

What’s the future of free parties in France?
It will be difficult because the French government is pushing new criminalization laws. These include potential jail time for organizers and heavy fines for participants. Usually the locations are difficult for the police to reach. But sometimes they come, stop the music, and ask everyone to leave. Otherwise, they will look for the organizers, seize the equipment, and issue fines. But this will not kill the movement. You cannot kill this culture. LONG LIVE FREE PARTY.

Find more of Noé’s work on Instagram @noe777.jpeg

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